It's Market Day!
- David Dunleavy
- Jan 5, 2024
- 6 min read
You may see from time to time our excitement at "market day" here in Provence. Every day of the week, within a 10-45 minute radius of our home, there is a Provençal market where vendors, local inhabitants and tourists converge in a convivial dance around seasonal produce, artisanal products, and the weekly routine of buying as "local" as possible.
Here at Le Farmhouse, we are spoiled for choice. Below is a list of some of our favorite and closest markets. You may have seen one of our reels on instagram in which we share our enthusiasm for this ritual. It seriously doesn't get old for us after 4 years living in France - we feel so privileged to be able to have this as part of our weekly routine. It's a social affair -- as we often run into friends (and followers!) who share our adoration of this market culture in Provence.
Here are two reels we have shared recently on our market days in Apt and Lourmarin:
Markets of the Luberon
The Luberon valley is known for its charming markets where villages come to life and locals and tourists mingle over a shared passion for local produce and slow living. Markets are generally “cash only”, although more and more vendors (meat, cheese, crafts) will have the ability to accept debit or credit cards. Our favorites are marked ★★★ below
MONDAY
Forcalquier (55 min / 50 km)
Monday is a slower day for markets in the Luberon. Further afield there is one of the largest Provençal markets in the neighboring Alpes de Haute Provence. Forcalquier is a charming village replete with history (Celtic, roman, middle ages). The market has some of the best selection of produce, linens and pottery.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: Consider booking a restaurant for lunch as the market can be quite crowded
TUESDAY
Gordes (20 min / 15 km)
Market day in Gordes is lovely, albeit replete with tourists and vendors that cater to tourism. That said, it's a great market for non-French speakers as most vendors speak English. It is a beautiful setting and village, and a great place to go for provencal products (olive wood, soaps, hats, clothing, art). There is limited produce, however. Parking can become difficult as can navigating through the throngs of tourists.
8:00am - 1:00pm
TIP: Go early. No really, consider arriving around 8/8:30am, grab something to eat at the local boulangerie and grab a coffee at Le Cercle Republican.
Saint-Saturnin-Les-Apt (15 min / 13 km)
This is a very small local market on Tuesday mornings. It is a great option if you want a closer, quaint village and a place to pick up local produce. Less touristed, but far fewer vendors.
8:00am - 1:00pm
TIP: Grab a coffee or lunch at the lovely Le Saint-Hubert.
Cucuron (35 min / 27 km)
Cucuron has a lovely Tuesday morning market around the main square (Place de l’Étang) along the bassin (large reflecting pool) and under the shade of the giant plane trees.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: You can make a half- or full-day itinerary in the southern Luberon by adding Lourmarin and Ansouis villages to your agenda. For a splurge meal, reserve for lunch at La Petite Maison de Cucuron.
Apt (12 min / 9 km)
On Tuesday mornings in the parking area of Cours Lauze de Perret, Apt has a producer’s market (farmer’s market) that has seasonal local produce. It is less touristed and mostly caters to locals for weekly produce shopping.
8:00am - 12:00pm
TIP: Parking Charles de Gaulle is a convenient place to park for this market
WEDNESDAY
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (50 min / 50 km)
For those who want to go on a longer excursion, the famous village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence holds its weekly marché provençal on Wednesday mornings. It is a well touristed village, which means you will have a lot to offer (shops, restaurants, cafés) and many fellow explorers with which to contend.
8:30am - 1:00pm
TIP: If you are heading over that way, we love lunch over the mountain in Maussane-Les-Alpilles at Au Bistro Marin (seafood). It’s a smaller, quieter village and a nice counterpoint to a busy market morning in Saint-Rémy. Also to consider is a stop at Les Carrières des Lumières (tickets online in advance).
Sault (40 min / 35 km)
In the other direction, away from the bustle of Saint-Rèmy you will find the village of Salt and it’s historic Wednesday morning market. This is a key village for cyclists climbing the famous Mont Ventoux, and is in a picturesque landscape of rolling wheat and lavender fields (in season). This market has longevity, as it has operated every Wednesday since…1515.
8:30am - 12:30pm
THURSDAY
Goult (10 min / 7 km)
Just down the road from us is a small but charming village of Goult. On Thursday mornings the village gets more bustle than usual and the small market in the main parking lot brings energy to the village. There is not much produce here, but several vendors with crafts, pottery, olive wood. The village also has a nice boulangerie, small fromagerie and excellent butcher.
8:30am - 1:00pm
TIP: Stop for a café at Le Goultois, a café favoured by the locals. You can reserve for lunch at La Terrasse, Le Goultois, Café de la Poste, or at La Gaudina (outside of town).
Ménerbes (15 min / 14 km)
One of our favorite villages, Ménerbes is much less touristy than Gordes or Roussillon. The Thursday morning market is not great for food (very limited selection), but is a nice stop for souvenirs and an excuse to walk around the village. There is a nice wine shop at the top of the village by the Place de la Mairie called the Maison de la Truffe et du Vin. They are waiting on their licence to serve wine - and if and when they do, their back garden cannot be beat for a quiet afternoon with a view over the vines.
8:30am - 1:00pm
TIP: Book lunch at either Café du Progrès (ask for the terrace) or Bistrot le 5.
FRIDAY
Bonnieux (10 min / 8 km) ★★★
This is our “home” village market on Friday mornings. We usually go and grab a coffee on the Terrace at Bistrot Le Terrail before the market. There are a limited number of vendors, but it is a wonderful little market.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: There are two parking lots at the base of the village (one behind l’Eglise Neuve” and one next to the tennis courts.
Lourmarin (30 min / 24 km) ★★★
This is probably our favorite market day experience as the village of Lourmarin is absolutely beautiful (and easy to explore). Friday mornings are lovely (and sometimes crowded) in Lourmarin, where there are loads of food and craft vendors.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: Head to Café Gaby first thing to grab a café on the terrace and people watch. If you want to stay for lunch, best to book in advance: L’Insolite, La Fontaine, Café Gaby, or Le Moulin de Lourmarin (upscale).
SATURDAY
Apt (12 min / 9 km) ★★★
The Saturday market in Apt is an institution dating back nearly 500 years. It is THE market of the Luberon where the whole village turns into a lively market. This is a market to stroll around, with over 350 vendors in high season.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: Parking Charles de Gaulle is a convenient place to park for this market if you can get there early. Take a break at the Place Carnot for a coffee, or reserve lunch at Café Valseuses.
Petit Palais (25 min / 20 km)
If you want a smaller, more approachable farmer’s market on Saturday, then consider the marché in Petit Palais (just past Coustellet on the way to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue). This is a charming, smaller market where many locals will go to avoid the crowds in Apt.
8:00am - 12:00pm
TIP: Bring cash as there is no ATM in Petit Palais
SUNDAY
Coustellet (15 min / 15 km) ★★★
The Sunday morning producers’ market in Coustellet has some of the finest and most local produce in the area. Coustellet itself is not a charming village, as it’s basically a commercial hub (like a strip mall) with shops and services that serve the valley. On Sunday morning, however, the market changes the vibe and it is a lovely way to shop for the week. There are a few vendors that cater to tourists as well (soaps, olive wood, clothing, etc), but most of the vendors are here with fresh, seasonal produce, meats and cheeses.
8:00am - 1:00pm, Seasonal (April to December)
TIP: Watch to see which vendors have large lines - it is usually a sign that they have something wonderful.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (30 min / 25 km)
The “little Venice of Provence”, l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a well known stop for tourists looking for antiques. On Sundays, the market is the largest in the area with a food, flea and antique market rolled up into one.
8:00am - 12:30pm
TIP: Consider grabbing lunch while in town. We recommend the bistrot at Le Jardin du Quai. Any trip to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue would also not be complete without a pastry or dessert from Maison Jouvaud, or a stop into Maison Moga for cheese and wine.
